The Nora Barnacle House in Galway advertises its reputation of being the smallest museum in Ireland. Its famous literary occupant was Nora Barnacle, wife of James Joyce and the inspiration for Molly Bloom in Ulysses. It was here that Nora resided with her mother and six siblings, cooking over an open fire and fetching water from a pump across the street. The tiny home consists of a mere two rooms, which the Barnacle family divided into sleeping quarters. Each room is a level thus the upstairs room served as a dormitory while the downstairs was a makeshift bedroom, living room and kitchen all in one. Nora departed for Dublin in 1904, however, she returned with Joyce on occasional visits. Joyce met his mother-in-law in the kitchen for the first time, and Nora spent a three week vacation here. The visits ended in 1922, yet Nora's mother lived here until 1940. The house was left to decay and abandonment for an abundance of years. It was in 1987 that two women purchased the miniature dwelling, bringing it to its present day restoration. The turn-of-the-century inhabitancy holds a variety of Joyce editions which the owners have collected over the years. It is important to note that the Nora Barnacle House is open only during the summer months.
Across the way, located in the Aran Island chain, is Inishmaan, "the middle island." John Millington Synge drew a great deal of inspiration from this area of Ireland, most memorably in his classic play Riders to the Sea. It is highly recommended for a visitor to read the play before departing on a tour. Teach Synge, also known as Synge's cottage, has been restored to its original turn-of-the-century condition, and is open for visitors. The tiny stone dwelling with a thatched hay roof and bright green door served as a mainstay for the author, and it was here that Synge drew inspiration for not only Riders to the Sea but for The Playboy of the Western World and various other works. Inhabiting the home from 1898 to 1903 Synge played his musical instrument of choice, the fiddle, and entertained guests, most likely speaking Irish, since the island is Irish speaking even today. Synge, and friends such as Lady Gregory, took up Irish during the Gaelic Revival, becoming fluent enough to keep correspondence with acquaintances. The restoration of the cottage was led by the great-granddaughter of Synge's hosts during his stay. In fact, she has collected photographs, letters and drawings associated with the playwright. One in particular is a letter sent from an island native who wrote to Synge and in the text, this quotation stands out: "No man at all can be living forever and we must be satisfied." Studied Synge fans and literary historians may recognize this famous quotation from Riders to the Sea as lead female Maurya's closing speech. Many attributed this triumphant conclusion to Sophocles yet they were actually the words of an Inishmaan islander, a little known fact in the literary world. Only open during the summer months, Teach Synge showcases beautiful, yet simple greenery marked by red and orange flowers. Even though the small home sparked the playwright's literary senses, it was Cathaoir Synge that served as his favorite spot on Inishmaan. Set up on the stone cliffs, with monstrous waves crashing against the rock face, Synge loved to come here, perhaps collecting his thoughts or dreaming of a play idea. Today the view remains stunning as the cliffs overlook the Atlantic Ocean and the neighboring island of Inishmore.
Besides Synge sites, guests can explore other aspects of Inishmaan. Famous are the sheep of the Aran islands thus warm, inexpensive sweaters are popular souvenirs. Sheep raising maintains the economy while fishing leads as the largest industry, in fact, fishermen use old-fashioned boats to catch their prey. Dun Conchuir beautifies Inishmaan as an old stone fort, and from the top, one can take in the outstanding views of the island, including quaint farmhouses and the roaring sea. Meanwhile, the fort of Dun Fearbhai is in the shape of a square, unusual for its day--the fourth century. During the summer months Inishmaan becomes lively with visitors, however, it is quieter than the neighboring islands thus it appeals to historians of Irish culture and literary travelers alike.
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