Oliver Cromwell, Jonathan Swift and Handel all share St. Patrick's Cathedral in their peculiar memories, while representing the three societal groups of politics, literature and music. The church's roots were planted in 1191, securing its status as the first diocese of Ireland. However, it was not until August 1649 that the Cathedral received its first dominant tribulation when Oliver Cromwell and a group of 3,000 warriors arrived in Dublin. Cromwell, the notorious Protestant fanatic, slaughtered an unfathomable number of villagers thus instilling the "curse of Cromwell" into Irish history. Insulting the Catholic church was also a mission of Cromwell, one which he carried out by making a stable for his horses out of the Cathedral's central area. From 1713 to 1745, Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver's Travels, served as Dean. Swift, holding a Doctorate of Divinity from Trinity College, longed for a distinguished position in the church of England, however, the Queen did not approve of Swift, and as a result, the only position he could obtain was at St. Patrick's in Dublin. Out of this grand disappointment an artist rose to the surface as Swift created Gulliver's Travels while residing at the Cathedral. During this time period, in 1742, another paramount event took place: the first performance from German-British composer George Frideric Handel's Messiah. Almost a century later in the 1870s, St. Patrick's was restored due to a weak structure, and as many believed, possible collapse. Interestingly enough, the famed Guinness family, of the Irish dark beer, funded the project. Therefore, much of the medieval architecture may have been destroyed, making way for the new Victorian era design. Meanwhile, the actual name comes directly from Saint Patrick himself. The legend goes that Saint Patrick baptized pagans who converted to Christianity thus a church was resurrected in his honor.
Today the Cathedral welcomes visitors from all over the world yet it maintains its holy presence since it is not a tourist attraction. Instead it functions as a working church with two services everyday, including sung services six days a week. To attend a service, one does not have to be a specific denomination. Upon entering the chapel, a visitor can absorb the ethereal comportment through the elaborate architecture. Walking down the center aisle, the golden arches of the ceiling contrast with the deep red hues of the floors and pews. Meanwhile, in another part of the Cathedral is the Huguenot Bell, commemorating the prominent Huguenot family who worshipped here from 1666-1816. Nevertheless, the most literary site remains the Jonathan Swift area of the Cathedral. Perhaps the creepiest yet the most fascinating object of the collection is Swift's death mask, a gleaming white plaster of the author's blank expression. The tribute continues with a bust of Swift, special selections of his works and the patent from Queen Anne giving him the authority to become Dean of St. Patrick's. Such a dedication deems appropriate due to the fact that Swift proved to be a great clergyman. He built a convalescent home for older women deteriorating in age, and celebrated the Eucharist every Sunday in services, which was the first of its kind in Dublin. The wooden pulpit where the author preached from is on display as well, securing his place in the Cathedral's grand history. Also on hand is his epitaph which seems to have the literary traveler in mind since it reads:
Here is laid the body of Jonathan Swift, Doctor of Divinity, Dean of this Cathedral Church, where fierce indignation can no longer rend the heart. Go, traveller, and imitate if you can this earnest and dedicated champion of liberty. He died on the 19th day of October 1745 AD. Aged 78 years.
A little known fact was Swift's undeniable love for music, as he wrote to friend, Alexander Pope, in a documented letter. Thus, partaking in a sung service is highly recommended for a visitor. Choirs come from all over the globe to perform in the Cathedral hence strict regulations are put upon choirs when singing at St. Patrick's. For spring and summer 2007, it is best to check the website for featured choirs at the time of the tour. Upon leaving the church, whether after a sung service or look around, a visitor must glance downwards upon exiting through the Cathedral's entrance, since Swift and his wife Esther Johnson, known in her husband's stories as Stella, are buried below, marked by white floor tile amongst the chromatic pattern of St. Patrick's Victorian surface.
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