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Hemingway in Paris and Pamplona

By Jennifer Ciotta

As Hemingway strolled through the cobblestone streets of Paris, one may want to saunter in the beautiful gardens of the city.  Pushcart vendors serve snacks while Japanese brides line the fountains to pose for wedding photos.  Back on the street, a tourist can lounge with a bottle of wine (costing only a couple of Euros), a three-course meal and an after dinner coffee in a charming cafe. 

Jake, the narrator of The Sun Also Rises, drinks his way through Paris and Pamplona. Today the bars and cafes of Paris can provide these inebriated experiences, or a finer dining, subtle approach.  At Le Deux Magots, a cafe frequented by Hemingway, a tourist can sip on a porcelain cup of steaming hot chocolate.  The author and his friend/enemy F. Scott Fitzgerald favored Harry's New York Bar, a historical landmark and birthplace to the Bloody Mary.  The Hemingway Bar, in the Ritz-Carlton, features fine wines and pricey drink selections along with bartenders schooled in Hemingway literature.

A visit to the Shakespeare and Company bookstore is a must.  One can either purchase limited editions, like the author himself, or read in the library among various struggling writers.  Hemingway brought Sylvia Beach, the bookstore's owner, to horse races as his gratitude of thanks.  In the autumn, Prix de lArc Triomphe fronts as the event of the season, since the whos who of Parisian society dresses to the nines while sipping champagne and placing wagers on favorite thoroughbreds. 

Meanwhile, in Spain, Pamplona's famous Running of the Bulls attracts thousands of visitors every mid-July.  One can sit in the Plaza de Castillo, town square, and take in the action, as the author himself did.  In Hemingway's favorite pub, Cafe-Bar Iruna, a visitor can enjoy tapas along with a cool class of Cruzcampo, the sole Spanish beer.  A trip to Spain must contain at least one pitcher of sangria followed by a midday siesta.

In The Sun Also Rises, Jake tips the bartender, but she pushes the money away, not understanding the concept of gratuity.  Today, in both Paris and Pamplona, remember to tip the bartenders--it is not only understood but in the spirit of Hemingway.

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